Surprises on the Zambezi and examplary ecotourism in Toka Leya
We bid farewell to a very generous and fruitful Namibia through its eastern tip and enter into Zambia, the 6th country on our expedition. As we are crossing the border, we receive a much awaited text message from Gerhard Botha, “We have a lens, please confirm purchase of Nikkor 18-200mm lens.”
Haroldo had a minor mishap with his lens (breaking the focus) while in Lianshulu and Gerhard is part of an impressive network of contacts that Wilderness Safaris activated to solve the issue. Driving into Zambia and we loose our cell coverage with our Namibian number, Haroldo wonders, “Will this lens ever arrive? How will I continue the expedition without this lens?”
Some hours later we arrive in Toka Leya, a Wilderness Safaris camp, and meet Marc the manager who offered Haroldo the needed anxiety relief. “I have been briefed of this situation and will make sure, from our end, that we get the new lens to you here in Toka Leya”, confirmed Marc. He handed Haroldo a loaner lens and suggested we take a cruise down the Zambezi to relax.
The river replenished our excitement to be in the field. Before we can even get our bearings to spot wildlife, Donald our launch skipper, points out a lone bull elephant on an island in the middle of the river. “This is rare to see”, confirms Donald as he approaches the elephant for a seriously close encounter.
These elephants have no problem crossing the massive Zambezi River.
The Zambezi at this time of the year is a paradise for birders. We saw countless species on one outing. These two above are different species of King Fishers.
Toka Leya is the final destination in our third stage and thus our days are mostly spent typing away stories, processing videos and photos. During editing session we interrupted by one of the guides. “Excuse me, but there is a white rhino in the camp. Would you like to see him?” Within seconds we are armed with cameras and tripods. We hop in the safari jeep for a short 100-yard drive. We stop yet there was nothing to see but a guard with an AK-47. “You can get out of the car and follow me, we must see the rhino on foot” says Clever, one of the 6 armed park guards who provide 24hr security for the rhinos (we later learned that the last rhinos in the park were poached). It is amazing how small and vulnerable you feel, once outside the sanctuary of the safari vehicle and on even ground with a rhino.
On foot, only yards away from the rhino we were careful not to make any sudden movements.
Zambia (along with Zimbabwe) hosts one of the seven natural wonders of the world: Victoria Falls. Comparable to Niagara falls (USA & Canada) and Iguacu Falls (Brazil and Argentina), Vic falls has bi-national viewpoints. Wilderness Safaris organized our quick hop into Zimbabwe to offer a different perspective. While Zambian views offered a promising rainbow over the falls, to our dismay we were poured on in Zimbabwe. Managing to take a photo or record a 5 second shot was a careful balancing act of dripping umbrellas, plastic bags and ponchos.
Mosi-oa-Tunya (the falls’ indigenous name) is neither the highest or widest waterfall, but is the world’s largest – 5,600 ft wide and 60 ft high – it forms the largest sheet of falling water in the world.
As one of Southern Africa’s most sought out tourism destinations, Victoria Falls attacks hundreds of thousands of visitors a year. However, the rapid development and negative tourism impacts have prompted the UNESCO to consider revoking the falls’ status as a World Heritage Site, raising a clear red flag to irresponsible tour operators.
Nevertheless, Wilderness Safaris’ Toka Leya camp sets the right example. The 12-room tented camp employs countless responsible practices, not because they want to show off their “green side” but rather because they understand the only way to keep visitors coming is by keeping the area as pristine as possible. Solar geezers to heat water for the showers, raised wooden walkways to preserve the habitat of even the smallest critters, and a water maker that generates H20 from thin air are among the many environmentally-conscious initiatives that are apparent to guests.
Yet, the back of the house is filled with even more responsible efforts. A complex ozone water treatment plant that transforms the grey water into a wetland for birds, a wormery that makes natural fertilizer from the kitchen’s organic waste, and a nursery plus green house that use the fertilizer to sprout new indigenous plants which repopulate the once devastated vegetation in the national park the lodge sits on… just to name a few. Oh wait, lest I forget the social contributions. The camp supports the local village with water and fuel and sponsors an education program for local school kids – Children in the Wilderness (CITW)– where they literally close down the lodge for weeks to give the youth a chance learn about the environment, while enjoying Toka Leya. Once again, Wilderness deserves serious ecotourism kudos!
One of the children from the Simonga village, supported by Toka Leya, gives the lodge a thumbs up!
March 10th, 2010 at 12:46 am
Sounds like tourism has had many negative inpacts in and around Vic Falls. I guess a lot has changed since I was there. Glad to hear that there are some positives as well. Keep spreading the word!