Etoshna National park is Namibia’s most important protected area. The park’s statistics are impressive: its area measures 8,800 square miles and hosts 114 mammal species and 340 species of bird. The Ministry of the Environment and Tourism proudly cares for this jewel, as it is the country’s main tourism attraction. “Unlike parks in some other African countries, here we do not allow off-road driving”, explains Shayne Kotting, the warden for Namutoni region of Etosha. He tells us that the park has hundreds of miles of great gravel roads, passable with 2WD.

The best place to photography wildlife is around the various waterholes throughout the park. Due to climate in the park, the ministry has built various waterholes ensure that the wild animals have enough water during the dry season. Shayne says that the Okaukuejo and Halali waterholes are the most important and can attract dozens of animal species at once during the dry season.

However, since the rains have begun a month ago, these waterholes are no longer as popular given that there is plenty of water elsewhere in the park. The zebras and kudus don’t have to share the same waterhole with the lions and leopards.  “You won’t find large groups of elephants, they have all gone into the bush. You are luck if you see a solitary male near the road” speculates, Shayne.

Haroldo and I did our first game drive in Etosha the afternoon we arrive at Okaukuejo, close to the southern gate of the park. From far we spot a black rhino. However, given that we were spoiled to see five rhinos for a couple hours (see Damaraland post), this lone rhino was no cause for a photographic frenzy. We were much more interested in the new species we were able to tick off our mammal list, the hyena that appeared suddenly in front of the car just before there was no more light left to shoot.

The low light, movement of the car and slow shutter speed produce an unexpected result and we are able to capture a unique shot of the spotted hyena.

Our second afternoon in Etosha, on another game drive this time from the Halali camp, we witness a scene worth of a BBC wildlife documentary. We spot four female lions resting under a tree, when one of them lifts its head. We stop the vehicle and wait for the next movement. The lion sits up right and then begins to walk. The second one follows. After some 30 yards, the leader sits again and the second one lies down beside her. More than five minutes go by, nothing happens, then the two other females that were under the tree get up, walk towards the first two and lay down. The four, although together again, are harder to see now as they camouflage easily in the golden grass. Some long minutes go by and we are just about to leave when the first female begins to walk again, now clearly in the direction of a small heard of grazing sprinkbok. Now we were sure they were up to something. While it may not be as filling as a hardy wildebeest, the delicate sprinkbok offers an easy catch and a necessary dinner. All four are up now, gaiting slowly in single file.

With the naked eye it is almost impossible to appreciate the scene. You need a good pair of binoculars or a large telephoto lens to understand what is about to take place. Some cars stop along side us and search for the lions, yet those not properly equipped quickly give up. We continue to be very excited about the developing scene, even more so when the four female split up. It’s clear they have a strategy of working together to ambush their prey, however their main tactic seems to be patience. They are calm and show no hurry or anxiety (much unlike Haroldo and I when we are hungry).

We have little expectation of actually seeing the live hunt. After all there is still an hour until sunset and the lions are likely to wait till dark to make their kill. They need to take advantage of the fact that they can see much better than their prey at night. We follow the episode for two entire hours, learning with the lion’s patience. Yet when night falls, we need to give up to return to camp. But we are sure small pride of lions didn’t give up, they enjoyed a fresh supper a couple hours later.

Two springbok graze unsuspectingly as two female lions gaze at them hidden in the golden grass.

The next day we saw three more lions. We also observed seven different species of antelopes. At times the spectacle occurred on the roads themselves. We need to be careful when we are driving and see giraffes, zebras and wildebeests, as they can decide to change course and cross the road right in front of the car.

The gravel roads are also a stage for smaller animals. We stop to let a green chameleon and a giant snail cross the road. One scene in particular catches our eyes when we see three large piles of elephant dung in the middle of the road. The digested grass is being attacked by dozens of huge dung beetles. We count at least 50 rolling around on each pile.

Small animals also have a place in Etosha. A leopard turtle crosses the park road. Dozens of dung beetles parade around elephant dropping left on the road.

The fresh dung is not only a good sign for the beetles, but for us as well. We know elephants where far from here. Will we be able to see at least a lone male as Shayne speculated?

With sharpen sights we screen the horizon. Creeping down the road for a couple kilometers until we finally catch a glimpse of moment. Through the camera viewfinder we can make out a roundish dark object, actually many of them. It’s no lone male, rather a large heard lead by a massive female. The family group also has three babies, still breastfeeding, and a few young, playful males. We shut off the motor and prepare ourselves for an hour-long photo shoot.

The scene is exemplary of what makes life in Etosha one of the most fascinating places in Namibia. It’s a park that continues to surprise even the most experienced guides and park guards. Contrary to the warden’s prognosis we end up finding two herds of elephants, totaling some 40 animals and countless photos. To be fair we also came across a, albeit lesser photogenic, lone male.

Two adolescent males, in a pool of water, wrestle and test the strength and ability of their trunks.

While we may have seen fewer animals due to abundance of water, the rains also brought us spectacular sunset skies.

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