Just 60 miles north of Damaraland Camp we find ourselves driving up an impressive pass through the Grootberg Mountains and a very steep driveway to reach the Grootberg lodge.  We were recommended to go to this unique lodge by a friend, Keith Sproule who works for WWF Namibia, not only for its spectacular view of the Klip River Valley but also because it is Namibia’s first 100% community-owned lodge.

On a clear day, the view from the pool reveals 18 miles of the valley that begins roughly 2,000 feet down from the lodge.  Rhinos, Elephants, lions and various antelope species freely inhabit this valley.

The lodge is part of the #Khoadi //Hoas (the strange characters represent clicks in the local language) communal conservancy, an area over 2,000 square miles of unfenced wilderness where the community and wildlife co-exist in relative harmony. The communal conservancy model gives the local community, through an elected leadership, the rights of ownership and management of the natural resources found in their land, including wildlife. With support of local and international NGOs such as WWF, the conservancies and tourism have proven to be a successful tool for sustainable resources management and poverty alleviation. Grootberg lodge’s profits are directly reverted back to the community, supporting locals with projects such as building schools, clinics, creating a community kitchen for the elderly and awards for good students.

An elderly man in a near-by village is proud to be communal conservancy member who has seen some of the benefits from Grootber’s tourism.

Grootberg offers tasteful gastronomy, well-trained guides and exceptionally good local management. As with most lodges in this region, the largest attraction for tourists is tracking desert elephants and the endangered black Rhinos, however since we had covered that experience from the Damaraland Camp, we opted for a cultural alternative, visiting the traditional nomadic pastoralists who inhabit the region, the Himbas.

As we approach the small Himba village near Palmfontein surrounded by makalani palms and lush river beds, Moses – our guide and translator from Grootberg lodge – explains that we will only find the women and children at this time of day since the all the Himba men are out with their precious herds of sheep, goats and cattle. We are welcomed by two women and several kids traditionally dressed who were happy to teach us about their traditions.

The braids of a young Himba girl are indicative of their age. Younger girls only have two small braids in front, while the older girls also have two braids to the back (LEFT).  A Himba women adorns herself with springbok skin (headdress) and abundant jewelry made from breaded leather, iron, shells and bones (RIGHT).

The proud Himba lady shows us the how she beautifies herself by smearing her skin with a mixture of rancid butter, ash and ground ochre-colored stones forming a paste (Otjize) which protects them from the harsh desert climate. The deep red color is a highly desirable look in the Himba culture.

Himba women do not bath, instead they burn a aromatic resin called “wild perfume bush” (Omuzumba) shrub under their face, arms, and legs. The Otjize paste is also used in their hair that is long and plaited into intricate designs.

Comfortable with our cameras and endless clicking, the women and children in the village were delighted to invite us inside their dwellings (cone shaped structures made from palm leaves, branches, mud and cattle dung) to show us some of their traditional songs dances.

Himba women dancing inside one of their dwellings. Their songs spoke of the joy of life.

The Himba women tell us that they are happy to receive tourists groups from Grootberg lodge. With every visit the lodge donates cornmeal and other basic supplements while tourists are also given to opportunity to purchase local crafts made in the village. It is clear that they too reap the benefits of community-based tourism.

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